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Fall 2023 Runways Prove We Are in Fashion’s Age of Exuberance

Fall 2023 Runways Prove We Are in Fashion’s Age of Exuberance

This is how the Fall 2023 runway collections are making fashion *extra* again

 

 

A decade ago, what was considered chic was defined by its restraint. Phoebe Philo’s influence on the normcore movement—defined by sleek lines and a penchant for a monochromatic palette—coursed through the runways and trickled out of retail racks and into the street. This was a time when street-style stars gladly donned their Stan Smiths during fashion week, when something as commonplace as a sweatshirt was elevated into a status symbol, when streetwear ruled and minimalism was god.

 

RELATED: Fashion News Roundup: Pharrell Leads Louis Vuitton & Phoebe Philo Launches Own Label

 

But today, as it usually goes with the changing tides of fashion, what is de rigueur looks completely different. The recent Fall 2023 runway collections from Paris, New York, London and Milan all point to one extremely persistent idea: exuberance. Out with the slim and streamlined tailoring, and in with oversized fits and large, imposing silhouettes. Goodbye to unadorned simplicity; hello to sequins, ruffles, fringe, embroidery and all other accoutrements. Yes, neutrals can stay—but punctuate them with bold pops of eye-searing color.

 

Could this anything-goes approach to dressing be a response to life post-lockdown? We don’t know, but the runways are jubilant and primed to usher us into the new Roaring 20s.

 

Ahead, we go through our favorite F/W 2023 collections that drive home one clear message: fashion is finally ready to fly its freak flag again.

 

RELATED: Your Guide to Balancing Maximalism for Everyday Wear

 

Altuzarra

 

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Known for his no-nonsense and confident approach to womenswear, Joseph Altuzarra is definitely one of the top proponents of 2010s minimalism. But this season, the Altuzarra woman has been reimagined as somewhat more romantic and more whimsical…and maybe even a little more fun?

 

Inspired by Greek mythology and the whimsy that's inherent in nature, Altuzzara sent down models dressed in color-blocked layers and wild prints that still feel very wearable. Our faves? His floor-length tailored coats stamped with botanical prints that look like the beginnings of a psychedelic trip.

 

Bottega Veneta

 

 

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Yes, there are massive expectations riding on Matthieu Blazy’s early tenure for buzzworthy Bottega Veneta. But if there were any doubts that he would be able to live up to Daniel Lee’s short-lived but impactful legacy, he squashed them with his brilliantly jubilant third collection for the brand.

 

The keyword for this show is movement: imagine donning pieces that feel alive and flow with you as you flit about your day. Although his use of color was restrained, Blazy’s textures were rich and sumptuous, spanning from a beautifully-draped leather gown that skims the body to an ostrich-feather coat that bounces with every step. But we call special attention to this dalmatian faux fur, which is chic enough to turn us into Cruella de Vil sympathizers.

 

Burberry

 

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Not to be outdone, former Bottega creative director Daniel Lee has successfully breathed a new life into Burberry. Amid growing concerns that the heritage British brand was losing its relevance, Lee sent out models in energized looks reminiscent of Carnaby Street in the Swinging Sixties.

 

Notably, he took the iconic Burberry plaid and reimagined it in multiple shades of neon, rendering them in head-to-toe looks that command attention. Definitely a collection Cher and Dionne would have loved in 1995.

 

Carolina Herrera

 

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For a brand synonymous with refined socialite style, this season’s Carolina Herrera woman is less the stern Upper-East-Side-matriarch in staid tweeds and more the young trophy-wife-slash-hostess renowned for her impeccable parties.

 

Wes Gordon didn’t hold back as he sent models down in bright colors in every hue of the rainbow. We saw full-skirted dresses that harkened back to the heyday of 50s couture, as well as floral prints that are just loud enough to be groundbreaking. We’re partial to the tiered ruffle gowns that take up space in the most elegant manner possible.

 

Christian Siriano

 

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Everyone’s favorite Project Runway alum and leading advocate of body positivity sent out looks inspired by the garden. But this isn’t some formal English garden defined by restraint—rather, Christian Siriano’s garden ran wild and free, reminiscent of somewhere Alice would have stumbled upon in Wonderland.

 

Models stomped down the runway in eye-catching dresses rendered in marigold, black and fuchsia. But the biggest feat? All of these looks perfectly straddled the line between avant-garde fabulous and wearable.

 

Christopher John Rogers

 

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Known for his bold rainbow stripes and unabashed use of color, Christopher John Rogers sent out a collection that feels just a little more reined in and edited this season.

 

But in classic CJR style, he published a lookbook filled with looks punctuated with lively prints and color. He says he was inspired by clowns for this collection—and if clowns can look this chic? Consider us headed to the circus.

 

Harris Reed

 

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For his eponymous label, Nina Ricci creative director and designer-on-the-rise, Harris Reed, took inspiration from the club-kid and ballroom scene and delivered a collection that reinvents theatricality.

 

Models sauntered down the runway in surreal metallic gowns and headpieces reminiscent of Harlem ball looks that would get 10s across the board. This is Harris Reed’s fever dream after all, and we are lucky to partake of it.

 

Jil Sander

 

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Synonymous with minimalism and clean lines, one wouldn’t equate Jil Sander to exuberance at first glance. But for this collection, the label infused some much-needed joy down the runway. With monochromatic looks in bright statement hues and oversized tailoring that envelops the wearer, Jil Sander proves that bigger can sometimes be better.

 

Paco Rabanne

 

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You can’t catch the glittering, sparkling clothes at Paco Rabanne and not think of 1960s It Girl and Warhol superstar Edie Sedgwick. With bold sparkle and youthful abandon, the collection is set to redefine the party girl for this decade.

 

And what an abundance of sparkle! With several looks rendered in the house’s trademark oversized metallic paillettes, we hope to catch (or wear; one can dream) one of these rockstar-worthy dresses to the club soon.

 

Valentino

 

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It wouldn’t be a stretch to consider creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli one of the leading proponents of exuberance in fashion today. Every season, he consistently sends out collections that deliver a romantic fantasy so moving it can make Celine Dion burst out in tears.

 

This Fall 2023 runway collection was no different. Centered around the concept of a skinny black tie, Piccioli sent out punk-infused looks that were bold, colorful and brash, yet confidently self-assured.

 

RELATED: Zendaya’s Latest Red Carpet Looks Are Proof She’s Always Best Dressed

 

How would you induce exuberance inspired by the Fall 2023 runway collections into your wardrobe? Let us know in the comments!

 

 

Words Jer Capacillo

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