The Most Anticipated Fashion Debuts for the Spring 2024 Collections

The Most Anticipated Fashion Debuts for the Spring 2024 Collections

Fresh new faces are at the helm of fashion’s biggest labels for Spring 2024



As the cliché goes, September is fashion’s biggest month. Think of it as fashion’s January: a fresh start where the world’s biggest designers show what they have prepared for the upcoming year’s Spring/Summer collections. It’s a clean slate where we do without the old trends of the past and look forward to the exciting call of the future.


It’s also the perfect time for the industry’s newly promoted head designers to prove what they’ve got. This month, several storied fashion houses will be debuting at Fashion Week with new creative directors at their helm, and are expected to take the brand to a new and exciting visual direction.


Ahead, we go through the five most exciting fashion designer debuts for September’s upcoming spring collections.


Peter Do at Helmut Lang

Once the ultimate tastemaker of cool and restrained minimalist chic in the 90s, Helmut Lang has faded in terms of influence and relevance as the next two decades flew by. But now in 2023, the brand hopes to revitalize itself by appointing buzzy Vietnam-born American designer Peter Do as its newest creative director.



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Do definitely has all the accolades needed for this position: He received the inaugural LVMH Graduate Prize in 2014, and trained under Derek Lam and Phoebe Philo during her tenure for CELINE. And his eponymous New York-based label is one of fashion’s hottest right now, known for his razor-sharp tailoring with dramatic flourishes. The question is: Will Do defer to Lang’s classic house codes, or will he inject his own design signatures when he takes over the brand? We’ll find out this upcoming New York Fashion Week, where Do’s Helmut Lang show will be opening.


Sabato de Sarno at Gucci

You can only imagine the pressure of succeeding a living fashion legend. When Gucci announced last November that the beloved Alessandro Michele would be leaving his role as the brand’s creative director, many fashionistas decried the move—and rightfully so. With his penchant for 70s-tinged nerdy chic and a more-is-more approach to color and embellishment, Michele gave Gucci its own distinct look and turned it into one of the buzziest labels of the past decade.



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RELATED: November in Fashion: Is It Goodbye Balenciaga, Raf Simons and More?


Succeeding Michele as creative director will be Sabato de Sarno, who has worked with Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino in the past. And while he is expected to debut his vision for Gucci in this month’s upcoming Milan Fashion Week, we can already see glimmers of his direction in his first campaign for Gucci Fine Jewelry. Lensed by David Sims and featuring 2000s supermodel Daria Werbowy sitting poolside fully undone in nothing but a swimsuit bottom and statement gold earrings, we have to ask: Is Gucci going minimalist?


Simone Bellotti at Bally

In the past year, Swiss luxury label Bally seemed to have been undergoing a quiet Renaissance. Under the creative direction of Filipino American designer Rhuigi Villaseñor (known best as the founder of cult streetwear brand Rhude), the brand explored a more sensual direction which increased sales and brought more awareness to a younger market. So when Villaseñor left abruptly in April after a little over a year, fashion insiders were shocked and left wondering why.



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Replacing him as creative director is Simone Bellotti, who recently joined Bally last October after 16 years working at Gucci. Having previously assumed senior design roles at Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta, only time will tell if Bellotti will successfully be able to continue Bally’s rise as started by Villaseñor.


Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford

Last November, Tom Ford sold his eponymous label to the Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. and walked away with a cool $1.1 billion—a landmark deal in the fashion industry. Succeeding the legendary fashion designer is Peter Hawkings, who until recently was the Senior Vice President of Tom Ford menswear.



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Hawkings started his career in 1998 alongside Ford, working as a design assistant under him during his tenure at Gucci. Ford, for one, couldn’t be happier. “In Peter Hawkings, the brand has found the perfect Creative Director…he is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience,” he shares in a statement. Hawkings’ take on the brand will be publicly unveiled when he debuts at Milan Fashion Week this September.


Phoebe Philo at Phoebe Philo

Finally, after a much-buzzed-about wait, legendary fashion designer and patron saint of chic Phoebe Philo is expected to debut her eponymous label this September. Backed by the LVMH conglomerate, no one yet knows whether Philo will be showing this Paris Fashion Week or if she’ll be dropping the collection online.



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This will be the first time Philo will be at the helm of her very own namesake brand. And while there haven’t been many teasers as to what to expect from her label, it’s safe to assume that all the Philo landmarks (namely, a commitment to tailored minimalism and a love for unexpected whimsy) will be present.


RELATED: Fashion News Roundup: Pharrell Leads Louis Vuitton & Phoebe Philo Launches Own Label


Out of September’s buzziest designer debuts, which one are you looking forward to the most? Let us know in the comments!



Words Jer Capacillo

Art Macky Arquilla

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